This high alpine multi pitch has been my dream for several years. As a little boy I walked on a glacier nearby seeing little humans climbing in the distant rocks. I would have never imagined to be one of them. This extraordinary multipitch starts on a vanishing glacier at 3170m. The rope length are mostly between 5c and 6a+ in perfect orange granite. Together with the stunning alpine surrounding – opposite to the route is the north face of the aiguille d’argentière – this route is an superbe experience. The route ends close to the summit of l’aiguille de la varappe (3540 m). From there you have to abseil to the glacier again.
Bivouac de l’envers des dorées (2983 m) – Our starting point
Sunrise at Aiguille d’Argentière
Glacier sunrise
The Aiguilles dorées
Aiguille de la Varappe with the route „les chants du midi“ (6a+) which is a bit left to the ridge you can see.
One of the first pitches
Working at the belay point
Helge enjoying the view
Helge from above
Helge following
So nice granite
The Zackengrat from above
Close up
The end of the route
The Aiguille du Tour (3540 m)
Close up on the Aiguille d’Argentière
Abseiling from the summit
The Wallis 4000m peak range in late evening light